Eating from the market in Milan

The deli stall

Almost every neighbourhood market has a gastronomia stall: rotisserie chickens, roast potatoes under the chicken, gratin vegetables, rice salad, vitello tonnato.

Half a chicken with potatoes runs around 7 to 8 euros and feeds two. Ask for a plate and a plastic fork: many stalls hand them over without a fuss.

The fish stall, late morning

Around 12:30 the fishmonger starts frying what has not sold: squid, prawns, anchovies, sometimes a mixed fry. It comes in a paper cone, like at the seaside.

It is also the moment for markdowns on fresh fish. If you cook at home, the last half hour of the market has the best prices.

Savoury tarts and cheese

The cheese stall cuts to order: a piece of grana, a slice of taleggio, a spoon of gorgonzola. With focaccia or a michetta from a nearby bakery you have a full lunch under 6 euros.

Many markets also have a stall for savoury tarts and farinata: greens, pumpkin, onion, in slices to eat in your hand.

The food trucks that follow the markets

Some larger markets, like the Saturday ones near Fauché or Papiniano, draw street-food vans: arrosticini, porchetta rolls, Eritrean or Sicilian cooking.

They are not fixed, but at weekend neighbourhood markets it is easy to find at least one.

What to grab for a quick lunch

• 100g of olives and a piece of focaccia: 3 euros, eaten walking.
• Half a rotisserie chicken with potatoes: 7 to 8 euros for two.
• A cone of fried fish from the fish stall: 5 to 6 euros, late morning only.
• Seasonal fruit for dessert: a bunch of grapes or two peaches for small change.

Hours and awareness

Open-air markets close around 2pm. To eat lunch you need to arrive by 1, better by 12:30 when the deli is still stocked and the fish starts frying. Bring cash for small purchases, though nearly every stall takes cards.